The firm of Castell's was founded in 1846, with premises in St. John's Street, to cater for the special tailoring requirements of Undergraduates and Members of the University of Oxford and, in 1852, due to a need for larger premises, the company moved to its present location at 13 Broad Street. Five years later, the premises burnt down and enquiries following this fire led to the formation of Oxford's first proper fire brigade and an updating of the mains water supplies to the City of Oxford.
In the 1870s, Castell's was recognised as the main outfitter for Academic Dress, College Colours, Sports and Social Club attire. In addition, Castell's produced the first modern style necktie (originally based on a cut down square at the suggestion of an American undergraduate). In 1896, the Castell family sold the business to two senior members of staff, Messrs. Trafford and Wheeler. The Trafford family eventually succeeded and started the specialisation in neckties for which Castell's has become famous. In the 1910s, experiments in the use of Jacquard loom techniques for the production of woven patterns for neckties led to the development of the Oxford 'crested' neckties.
In the 1920s Castell's became known as 'The Varsity Shop' amongst University staff and students as it was the recognised official outfitter and supplier to the Varsity sports teams. In the 1930s, the Chancellor of the University of Oxford appointed Castell's to design a range of University ties and the resultant 'Oxford Tie' became recognised world-wide.
In 1945 Mr. Trafford died, the family sold the business to Messrs. Max Adamson & Guy Osborn and bespoke tailoring was reduced to a minimal role owing to the rationing of clothes during the war. In 1947, the company was incorporated as Castell & Son (Oxford) Limited, specialising in University outfitting, club and heraldic colours. An export business was also developed, supplying primarily the USA and Commonwealth countries.
In the 1950s, on the closure of Adamsons Ltd, Castell's took over the role of official academic dress supplier to the University of Oxford and extra premises were taken in the High Street for the Heraldic and Club Colours export business. Bespoke tailoring (including academic dress) was further reduced in Broad Street and plans were made to transfer some academic dress responsibilities to Shepherd & Woodward in the High. In 1956, Mr. Guy Osborn of Castell's, with Mr. Dennis Venables of Shepherd & Woodward, helped to revise the specifications of the University's academic dress to allow for new synthetic materials and, in 1957, Mr. Venables together with Mr. Clifford of the University Registry produced the first official illustrated guide for the University of Oxford's revised academic dress.
In the 1960s & 1970s, Castell's export business continued to grow and a branch was opened in Cheltenham. Following the death of Mr. Guy Osborn in 1976, his son Hugh took over, closing the loss making bespoke academic dress and tailoring facilities in Broad Street. In the 1980s, focus was placed on developing the export and tourist trade, while consolidating the University Academic, Sports and Club colours business. However, in the 1990s, Castell's export business was badly affected by the UK Government decision to join the ERM and, as a result, more strategic emphasis was placed on the local tourist trade. At this time, Castell's was appointed official adviser to the Blues Committee and the company developed the first graphical information database for the University of Oxford Blues and the Colleges' Club Colours attire.
On the retirement of Mr. Hugh Osborn in 1993, Castell & Son (Oxford) Ltd. was sold as a going concern to Shepherd & Woodward Ltd., who continue the traditions of the business.
Source : Mr. Hugh Osborn, retired MD, Castell & Son.
The records in this collection were acquired on 8 Jan 1990 as a gift from Oxford City Council under accession number 3029. The records are primarily 20th century and consist of bound volumes covering customer orders, customer tailoring information, customer and cash accounts plus a volume of correspondence.
Catalogued by Amanda Ingram in April 2005.